Left/Right & Di-Electric Fittings
If you've been searching for those elusive left/right threaded black iron fittings, you've come to the right place. PlumbingSupply.com
® is your source for hard-to-find fittings such as these left/right threaded nipple and coupling sets, left/right fittings, dielectric fittings, and many more fittings (
PVC,
brass,
copper and
stainless steel), fixtures (
sinks,
tubs,
toilets and
faucets),
tools and thousands of other plumbing-related products.
Left/Right Nipple And Coupling Set
These have standard right-hand threads on one side & reverse (left-hand) threads on the other. These are generally used for gas piping, when unions are not allowed.
Need to seal your pipe threads? visit our page for PTFE tape and pipe dope.
Left / Right Nipple and Coupling Sold Separately
Note: You need both a left/right nipple & a left/right coupling to use these
Note: You need both a left/right nipple & a left/right coupling to use these
Need to seal your pipe threads?
Visit our page for PTFE tape and pipe dope.
Di-Electric Unions - Forged Steel
Sweat x Fips
Di-Electric Unions
help stop corrosion of the galvanized piping when transitioning to copper pipe.
For Potable/Drinking Water
Looking for copper unions?
Di-Electric Unions - Galvanized
Fips x Fips
Need to seal your pipe threads? Click here for PTFE tape and pipe dope.
Insulated Di-Electric Couplings - Galvanized
Fips x Fips
Galvanized steel body internally insulated with ABS plastic
Maximum working temperature 180°F
Need to seal your pipe threads? See below.
View our stainless water heater flexes - they act as dielectric fittings as well.
Thread Sealants (IPS Threads)
To ensure our customers receive fresh products, TU-555 pipe joint compounds are non-returnable.
Related Items & Accessories
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. "Any left- and right-hand tricks?"
A. The trick for left- and right-hand fittings and couplings is to get the correct bite the first time. The way to do that is to insert one side of the nipple/coupling and hand-tighten. Count the number of turns to get it to hand-tight. Then take apart and do the same on the other side. If one side took more turns to get it to hand-tighten, then add (or subtract) that number before starting; and turn that amount into the side that took more turns. In other words, the secret is to tighten the same amount after hand-tightening.
Q. "I want to attach galvanized piping to copper piping, but my friend said I need a dielectric union. Is this correct?"
A. Yes, some type of isolation must be placed between galvanized steel pipe and copper piping. Many plumbers use dielectric unions or insulated couplings for this purpose. Dissimilar metals, ferrous and non-ferrous, joined together will cause one of the metals to corrode. Usually in piping applications the ferrous metal will corrode, in this case the galvanized. Ferrous metals have iron in them, and non-ferrous metals do not. When galvanized is attached to copper the galvanized is electro-negative and the copper is electro-positive which causes the galvanized to corrode, also known as galvanic corrosion. Water heaters also need some type of dielectric connection from the steel tank if copper pipe is being used. Stainless steel water flexes work well as a dielectric isolation between the steel tank and the copper piping.
Q. "I'm hearing a lot about lead-free these days. What does that have to do with plumbing products and how does the new lead-free legislation affect me?"
A. Basically, the laws implemented Jan. 1st, 2014 require plumbing products that come in contact with drinking water to be "essentially lead free" (less than 0.25% weighted average). For further information about how the law determines what is "lead free", rules regarding which plumbing products must be "lead free", and who these laws will affect, please view our page.
return to top ↑