Frequently Asked Questions
Q. "What type of vent do these tankless water heaters require?"
A. These tankless water heaters require Category III stainless steel vent only.
Q. "Is it possible to drain a tankless water heater to prevent freeze damage when not in use?"
A. Yes. Simply drain both lines 'to' and 'from' the unit. As long as there are no check valves in the way, that should drain the water from the unit. To guarantee that there is no water in the unit, we recommend two drain valves - one before and one after the unit - as well as blowing air through the water line.
Q. "I would like to convert my natural gas tankless heater to be able to use LPG (propane) gas instead. Do you offer a conversion kit?"
A. Sorry, but we don't. Even if we could, we probably wouldn't, as in most cases it is not a good idea to convert one type of gas for another. Burners can be different, orifices, etc. Not only is the BTU rating different for these two gases, but also the heat of the flames and a number of other factors. We simply do not wish to sell ("profit from") something that might create a non-safe environment.
Q. "I live in an area where it freezes, what can I do to protect the heater from freezing?"
A. We recommend you use the TK-TV03 exhaust backflow prevention kit to prevent cold air from entering the vent and causing the heat exchanger to freeze.
Q. "If these units don't have a tank, how do they know when to turn on?"
A. These tankless water heaters have a flow switch built into them. When you turn on the hot side of a faucet the water begins moving. Once the water is traveling at minimum flow rate for the heater, the flow switch will turn on the gas or electricity.
Q. "What's the difference between a conventional flue and a direct vent?"
A. A conventional flue is what most people are familiar with. It typically consists of a double-wall flue pipe going from the top of the heater through the roof, venting outside. The fixture draws its combustion air from the space around it (utility room, garage, hallway, etc.). A direct-vent unit on the other hand, both vents and draws its combustion air through a specially designed pipe from the outside via an adjacent wall.
Q. "Your products specify the 'temp. rise' based on the GPM flow; what do you mean by this?"
A. Temperature rise is the amount the heater raises the temperature of the incoming water, based on the flow rate shown of that water.
Q. "Will a tankless water heater save me money on my utility bills?"
A. Yes, however, the amount of savings will depend on the type of fuel used to heat the water. Usually electricity is more expensive than propane, and propane is usually more expensive than natural gas. In most cases you and the environmemnt will benefit from a tankless water heater.
Q. "Can I use PVC to vent gas tankless water heaters?"
A. No. The temperature of the exhaust is too high to safely use PVC as venting material. We never recommend PVC as venting even where the ideal exhaust temperatures would technically allow it due to a much higher incident of dangerous issues associated with PVC venting on poorly-maintained gas tankless water heaters.
Q. "I'm hearing a lot about lead-free these days. What does that have to do with plumbing products and how does the new lead-free legislation affect me?"
A. Basically, the laws implemented Jan. 1st, 2014 require plumbing products that come in contact with drinking water to be "essentially lead free" (less than 0.25% weighted average). For further information about how the law determines what is "lead free", rules regarding which plumbing products must be "lead free", and who these laws will affect, please view our page.
