Frequently Asked Questions
Q. "How does the 5150 ballcock work?"
A. The 5150 operates in much the same way any compound lever ballcock does, except that there is no refill tube. The refilling of the bowl is done through the diverter valve. The vacuum breaker on the ballcock is an open atmospheric vent. The hard rubber ball which seats on a neoprene washer in the vent is NOT a check valve, nor does its function have anything to do with venting. Its ONLY purpose is to prevent water from spilling through the vent opening when pressure is on an open ballcock. This vent will relieve any vacuum condition on supply lines without any back siphonage. The water control volume is located beside the plunger. Closing the knurled head puts back pressure on the plunger and reduces the rate of water flow through the ballcock.
Q. "Do you offer a replacement ballcock/fill valve for the Case 57 ballcock?"
A. We are sorry to report, no replacement fill valve (ballcock) is available for the Case 57 Ballcock. It is a very rare fill valve made for a very short period of time for the Case 1000, Case 1100 and Case 3000 one piece toilets. Most Case model numbers 1000, 1100, and 3000 one piece toilets use the Case 5150 ballcock. However, the Case 5150 will not replace the Case 57 ballcock. The particular models of toilets using the Case 57 were made with a different inside tank configuration designed specifically for the Case 57 ballcock. You can view a side by side comparison of the Case 57 and Case 5150.
Q. "How can I determine if my Case 1000 toilet has a model #57 fill valve (ballcock)?"
A. You will need to carefully lift the tank lid off and look inside at the fill valve. The Case 57 Ballcock has large raised letters and numbers molded into the brass valve body just below the volume control nut as shown in this close-up view of the Case 57 ballcock.
Q. "The cost for repair parts for these toilets seems a little expensive, compared to parts for most other toilets. Why is this, and can I use other parts instead?"
A. The Case Toilet Company has been out of existence for a number of decades, and their parts are rare and difficult to find. In relation to the huge number of toilets installed around the world, there are relatively few Case toilets still in use. This makes the need for their parts less common, and so manufacturing them is more costly. However, for the most part, only parts made specifically for Case toilets will work. View our page for hard-to-find Case toilet repair parts.
Q. "The part you have pictured doesn't look like the part in my toilet, but you say it's the same thing. Will this part work for me?"
A. Maybe. Because Case toilets were discontinued so long ago, it is extremely difficult to find parts for these toilets. In addition, over the years Case (and eventually Briggs when they purchased Case) updated or changed parts to make them more efficient or keep up with manufacturing demands. This means that an older Case toilet may use a slightly different version of a particular valve than a newer Case toilet. The replacement valves we offer are the most recent version of the part (since we can't get older versions), and so the repair parts we offer are intended for these valves. They may work for older valves or they may not, but we cannot be certain a specific part will work for your situation. We encourage you to review our return policy and then stay positive and embrace the adventure of owning a toilet that was discontinued generations ago.
Q. "What is the best way to replace my tank ball?"
A. Generally, with most toilets: First, turn off the water supply and flush the toilet. The tank ball will most likely be deteriorating and you will get your hands dirty. Or, you may wish to use some latex gloves. Reach in and with one hand lift the wire attached to the tank ball. With your other hand unscrew the tank ball from the lift wire. In some cases, depending on age of product and water conditions, the lift wire may be corroded and break as you try to unscrew the tank ball. Replace the lift wire if necessary. Replace the tank ball with an identical size tank ball. Screw the new tank ball onto the lift wire. Be careful of older brass parts inside your toilet so as not to break or damage them and cause you more problems. Now turn the water back on and allow the tank to fill up. The water fill valve should not leak once the tank is filled (be going on and off in cycles). If it does, then we recommend some food coloring be put into your tank. This can help diagnose the problem. The colored water should not be going into the bowl (unless you flush the toilet of course). If the food color does go into the bowl, then possibly the tank ball is not the correct one or the surface where the tank ball sits has eroded (feel below where the tank ball touches the seat of the flush valve and see if you can feel erosion or possibly a small groove). Also check to make sure the lift wires are not bent and allow the ball to lift and drop easily and centered onto the flush valve seat.
Q. "I installed a new fill valve and it will not shut off completely. The water has reached the float, and the float appears to close the valve. How come the fill valve continues to run?"
A. 1) It could be there may be dirt or debris between the plunger and the seat or in the incoming line of the valve. It is best to turn your water off, remove the plunger from the fill valve. Turn the water back on for a few minutes to flush any dirt or debris out of the valve and the water line. During this process, you may want to cover the fill valve with your hand or a cup to prevent water from spraying you or your ceiling.
2) It may be the float needs to be adjusted. Do not bend the float rod. Adjust the plunger fulcrum arm. To lower the water level, place a screw driver under the middle of cross lever and above the support of the float rod and press firmly on the float rod next to the fulcrum.
